I think the cold has been an advantage

For three weeks we've struggled with the intense cold of a north Indian winter. Every time we thought we were heading to warmer weather, the cold would follow us. But... we were warned Varanasi is the smelliest city in India - that is some claim to fame... However, because it was cold, the rotting river, burning cremation ghats, intense muddy poverty and human waste was no worse than anywhere we have visited. In fact the smell of India has been less shocking than expected. And I think it is due to the cold. It is hard to imagine just how bad it could be with the sun brewing the rubbish, the humidity generating human sweat, animal and human dung gathering on the streets and bacteria multiplying in the open sewer heat to create odours not smelt before by our privileged noses.

We were lucky to be in Varanasi during a religious festival and were able to watch the monks' ceremony from a boat out on the Ganges. Had the best Lassi of the trip here. It's a pilgrimage site for both Indians and westerners and it was very interesting to see the hippy crowd in their cheese cloth, meditating, doing yoga and seeking advice from gurus to 'find' themselves.

 

A Goa State of Mind

I thought Goa, our final destination, was a city. But it is India's smallest State - and one of it's most well known. Popular with British, European, Australian and North Americans since the '60s as the ultimate trance party scene, where mind altering drugs were easily sourced and consumed. It still has a reputation as a party destination, most lately with the Russians. It is also the only State of India where gambling is legal - with most casinos ensconced on crumbling decommissioned cruise ships in the capital's harbour.

Unfortunately the region's reputation with westerners has extended to the Indian domestic tourism market and Indians flock here now in the expectation that any poor behavior will be tolerated - alcohol abuse, drug dealing and user abuse; and the petty crime that goes with the behaviour have taken some of the relaxed bohemian style away.

The Bali of Goa with cashed up Russians and Indians misbehaving grossly, pensioned Brits spending their winters with their obscene exchange rate to pay for cheap all inclusive package holidays taking up the sun lounges around the pools and on the beach...

Having said that, the collection of beach towns and old Portugese settlements (it remained a Portugese colony till 1962 when the Indian army finally lost patience and ordered them to leave at gun point) have a crumbling colonial charm with equal measures of old buildings, huge mango trees and small sunny beaches. We visited the main resort beaches of Calangute and Baga (nee Bali), stayed at a private resort in the Vagator/Anguna beach area (aging hippie scene), visited the current capital Panjii and original capital Old Goa; topping off our exploration with a visit to a spice plantation in the eastern farm valleys. Mostly on a little red moped (and on foot).

 Kilometers of sun lounges and bars line the beaches at Calangute and Baga

Kilometers of people swamp the beach, such a contrast to home where we have it all to ourselves

 Although there are patrolled beaches, the red and yellow flags share the water with fishers, and motorised water sports. Enything and everything goes -every man for himself - the beach works the same way as the roads :)

 The catch... Actually the man in control had a t-shirt full of these little fish after three drags and they would have been made into a spicy fish curry for his family and the helpers - served with plenty of rice to make it go around. Murray spent half a day fishing out on a boat and managed about four under sized catches that he returned to the ocean to let some local catch and eat the next day...

 Sandcastles on the beach

 

Cafe Del Mar Calangute - we also saw a 'copy cafe' in Varkala. Close your eyes and ears and maybe you can imagine you are at the real thing...

 Cows share the beach

 
 Vagator - quieter beach

 

Anjuna Beach - much quieter

Dinner on our final night with the Intrepid group. Here Murray and I share a smile with fellow traveller, Kirsty (UK).

 No-one drinks their beer, so they branched out into water - an interesting brand extension...

 Our resort. What heaven. How much we appreciated a sprung mattress, shiny clean sheets and towels, hot and cold water on demand, absolute peace and quiet, everything not only in working order but beautifully maintained, plus we had a fridge and a microwave and a kettle. There was no dust on anything and they serviced our room daily. This was an Australian 4 star standard property that felt like 7 stars to us :o) Never got in the pool but to sit by it and enjoy a beautiful meal that came on hot plates surrounded by lush green grass and trees. We'd been travelling - now we were having a holiday!

Well dressed cow

 

Barbie in India

Portugese style homes. Unfortunately they are mostly not as well maintained as this and are gradually losing their terracotta tile roofs, and verandahs to the elements.

Stately home in Baga area

Old building on the water front Panjii

Commercial building in Panjii

Old Goa churches. In the Portugese style, They have not retained their opulent gold fit outs. I was expecting interiors more like the Peruvian cathedrals but they have been sacked and the gold recycled into other uses. Some restoration has been completed but the environment is very harsh and most need more work just to maintain them.
 

That's Murray on the bike in the front right ;)

Portugese gate. Down on the river front, this is where the Portugese made their entrances when they came to trade and demonstrate their wealth and power through their navy.

The shrine of St Francis of Assisi. This was in the news in India over the past few days with some academic suggesting that the mummy was possibly a Buddist monk from Nepal. That went down like a lead balloon...

The casinos....you'd have to hope they look better inside. I can only imagine everyone boards after dark when the fairy lights take the rusty edge off...