I think the cold has been an advantage

For three weeks we've struggled with the intense cold of a north Indian winter. Every time we thought we were heading to warmer weather, the cold would follow us. But... we were warned Varanasi is the smelliest city in India - that is some claim to fame... However, because it was cold, the rotting river, burning cremation ghats, intense muddy poverty and human waste was no worse than anywhere we have visited. In fact the smell of India has been less shocking than expected. And I think it is due to the cold. It is hard to imagine just how bad it could be with the sun brewing the rubbish, the humidity generating human sweat, animal and human dung gathering on the streets and bacteria multiplying in the open sewer heat to create odours not smelt before by our privileged noses.

We were lucky to be in Varanasi during a religious festival and were able to watch the monks' ceremony from a boat out on the Ganges. Had the best Lassi of the trip here. It's a pilgrimage site for both Indians and westerners and it was very interesting to see the hippy crowd in their cheese cloth, meditating, doing yoga and seeking advice from gurus to 'find' themselves.